If you are looking to gain clearance under your vehicle for rough roads or get some extra wheel well space for larger wheels and tires, complete lift kits are the absolute best way to go because it is essentially one stop shopping. Downward spring articulation and a static clearance lift face the same clearance factors. If its coils at the rear you're not too bad a shape but airbags are more troublesome so I hear, therefore it's a good time to exchange them. Many Land Rovers can be lifted a few inches just by replacing tired leaf springs with new ones. Rover used a stock off the shelf Spicer yolk and spline assembly.
This can be done in a number of ways. We simply don't list part 's that we can buy - we stock them. There is a tradeoff for every change you make from stock. This is a precisely machined direct bolt in kit that requires no further modifications. Unfortunately this has the effect of changing the vertical link steering geometry and making the steering less stable. Enlarging the space for tyre clearance without lifting the body: There are two primary issues involved here.
The new edge was then welded. You will need to extend brake lines, abs wires all round. Downward articulation swings the top of the tyre out towards the wheel well edges. Note that the factory did not use extended shackles with 88s. If one kit is noticeably cheaper than another there is probably a good reason; it may not include all of the same components. For every inch taller tyre that you install under your Land Rover you get a half inch additional ground clearance.
Rover used the shorter of the two lengths. With the body sitting higher away from the frame there is more room for big wheels and tires, however the actual ground clearance underneath the vehicle remains unchanged. Your dampers should have pin to pin connections as well, I'm not sure if there are like this as standard, the D1 std items are pin at the bottom and eye at the top. Larger tires are heavier and so require different suspension settings. Lifting the car There are basically three kinds of lift.
. If you are lifting the car more than two inches or so the prop shafts may also need to be lengthened. One change will often require a number of other changes to bring everything back into acceptable specs. So whether you are after the right look or need some additional function from your truck, we highly recommend complete lift kits. This is needed if you have increased articulation and will cover small lifts. By incorporating new springs and usually shocks, you not only gain lift, but you have the correct spring rates and shock valving to match the lift. Leveling kits utilize helper springs or spacers in order to boost the ride height on only one end of your rig so that it rides with a level stance and potentially can clear larger tires.
This is a precisely machined direct bolt in kit that requires no further modifications. And the important word here is stock. Small body lifts can can affect the length between the transfer case and front diff enough to cause the front prop shaft to separate under extreme downward front articulation. What parts do complete lift kits normally come with? I believe it is because the added lift caused the short rear prop shaft 'U' joints to exceed the maximum recommended angle. Les Richmond Automotive in Australia produces a lot of stuff for the Discovery 2 and it along different lines to what you may find here. Doing it piecemeal like I have is not the best way as you are always putting stress on one component or another during the fitting stage which can last months.
Since different brand tyres have different actual dimensions the only way you can really tell how a tyre fits is to mount it then take it off roading where the car undergoes extreme articulation. If it is a shackle lift the kit will include shackles, bushings and hardware. In addition it enhances the approach and departure angles. Spacers or a longer prop may be required. The most common forms include suspension lift kits, leveling lift kits and body lift kits.
Taller tyres will give you a higher top speed, higher speed while rock crawling and will require more horse power and fuel to reach a given highway speed. Anytime you change tyre sizes don't forget to adjust your steering stop bolts for minimum turning radius without hitting the inner wheel well. I seem to be able to find very little info on this for the disco 2 and was just wondering what is 100% necessary to do and secondly the suppliers for these parts? Also anything that increases downward articulation will decrease this clearance. Especially if it is used in conjunction with wheel spacers or increased outward offset wheels. You'll probably need to fit caster corrected arms at the front to avoid bump steer - you might get away with caster corrected bushes but they are expensive and tend to fail. The shop will ask the static length between the prop shaft mounting flanges so you should measure prior to bring yours in for rework. Getting you what you need, efficiently and effectively - it's what we do.
They have a diagonal clearance grove in the front of the cross member under the front prop shaft. Early Euro spec Defender panels do not have side light holes and the mounting bolt holes match up to a Series inner wing panel. There is generally enough front to rear clearance for this to occur keep this movement in mind if reworking inner wheel wells. The yolk end piece has a set of female splines. The affect on ride and stability will differ by the condition of the springs and how much they are arched.