Repeating the entire process would get me up from the bike to spin the motor and when I would sit back down to re-check clearances I would usually find that they still needed slight adjustments to be spot-on in spec. Reason I ask is that it's common for there to be popping on decel or off throttle, the popping being caused by traces of unburnt fuel igniting inside the hot exhaust pipes. We need an offset 10mm to get to the valve locknuts as they set down in the inspection area below the opening in the head. The Fury is guaranteed to do that. It ran great with no popping. Thanx for the up-date, skuuter.
All the testers agreed that the engine sound exiting the staggered dual exhausts slightly longer on the 1300S model is pleasingly strong and textured, though, and preferable to the unusually clean, robotic sound of the bigger Honda. Also, the write-up of the process was superb. I'm no fan of the Retro version of either displacement package , it's true, but the straight 1800 is a substantially sexy machine. Front cylinder The 2 covers in the middle of the motor nearest the intake are for the intake valves, while the 2 covers furthest apart near the exhaust ports are for the exhaust valves. Worked real well, since I got big hands and can't fit into little spaces too well.
Fuel capacity for both 1300s is a hefty 4. This ignites that unfired fuel in the exhaust pipes. Too big to be justified as a choice to go small, these new Hondas are only middling to me. It is a high quality product and would highly recommend to anyone. If the problem remain after adjusting the fill valve then I will suggest you to and replace with the old one.
With these big items out of the way it makes it a little easier to see what needs to come off so you can get where you need to be working. I have a dual cylinder Honda engine, with the reputation of being one of the most durable engines around. With the chrome cover out of the way grab a 17mm socket and remove the crankshaft cover: Where it belongs Next remove the top radiator 10mm bolt and use a screwdriver, block of wood, or anything about the right size to shim it forward 1-2 inches. This is pretty friendly group with members always ready to help. Interesting point, but when you look at all the factors that might affect cylinder balance, I don't think uneven valve clearance is likely to rise out of the noise until things get way out of spec and you're on the verge of more major issues.
It is not something you should do after symptoms appear. If the inspection gap is not within spec then the 10mm locknut gets loosened and tiny turns are made to the 4mm adjuster to bring the gap within spec. Fire up the engine and waves of muscular V-twin power, sound and feel—vital elements that constitute the soul of the Fury—flood the senses. Take a 17mm socket, an extension, a socket wrench and a flashlight and go down to the crankshaft. Using a lift is certainly not necessary, but it does make this task easier by holding the bike level and at a better height to work on. Excellent post, Veritas44, very thorough and well written I know you understand the theory, but wanted to share a little add-on.
The seat's another story, and the C's short, narrowly shaped pan cut into our hamstrings where they contacted the seat, though the taller rider preferred its more open design. I had my set of plates a few days after placing the order. The extra length and offset bend of these feelers helps a lot with this job. This is one of the most thorough and easily understood maintenance procedures I have read. And the power and sound coming from its big 1312cc V-twin? If he really can't afford to spend much and doesn't have any or much riding experience, I'd suggest getting a good, used metric bike for a year or so. My deceleration pop is totally gone, really cleans up the top of the engine. Standard disclaimer: As always, you undertake this project at your own risk! It sold quickly, and by the close of 2003 sales totaled almost 12,000 units.
Great Posts from both of You Ol' Grey and Veritas44. I haven't had the opportunity for a long run yet but I think it will be a lot easier on the ears over extended periods. This is a picture of the front intake valves: Click for larger pic You can tell these are intake valve adjusters because you can see the second valve adjuster under this one. Operational problems revolve around added pipes and jetting issues, and attempts to improve the air intake. It takes energy from the engine to do this auto-adjusting, so if you put 2 identical engines side by side with auto-adjusting valves in one and manually adjusted valves in the other, the engine with manually adjusted valves will make more power than the other.
Sometimes doing this also requires you to loosen the right front footpeg mount so the pipe can move freely. The 1261cc V-4 has aluminum-composite cylinder sleeves that are designed for longer wear along with improved heat dissipation over conventional steel sleeves. So Honda went where no manufacturer had gone before -- at least not with this engine configuration and size. By unbolting the exhaust it allows you to carefully pull the tail end of the exhaust away from the bike, this usually gets you the clearance you need when all else fails. I worked slowly and carefully, and it took me a very long time.